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SEPTEMBER 15, 2007 9:05 PM

The Vegan's Dilemma
I have a love/hate relationship with the work of Michael Pollan. On the one hand, it's not such a bad thing to have a high profile Berkeley journalist railing against the evils of industrial livestock production in popular books and articles. On the other hand, his rhapsodizations of the utopic splendor of "humanely raised meat" and his nostalgic "hunting-is-communing-with-nature" poppycock are irritating at best. While the mainstream media has for the most part lavished uncritical adulation on Pollan, it's nice to see a razor sharp critical edge in this review of Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma by B.R. Myers in The Atlantic Monthly.

To say the least, Myers takes off the gloves: "A record of the gourmet's ongoing failure to think in moral terms, The Omnivore's Dilemma helps one to understand why no reformer ever gave a damn about fine dining -- or the family dinner table either. When Jesus vowed to turn children against their parents, he knew he'd be ruining an untold number of perfectly good meals." Preach it, Brother Myers!